Saturday Night

So I had seen the El Greco! 

By now it was getting to be late afternoon and I was at one end of town and needed to head off to the other end to get to the last place on my "want to see" list.  I confess that I was out of enthusiasm. Running on fumes. 

While I might looked to an observer like a tourist on a stroll, I was actually having an argument with myself. 

On the one hand, I wanted to visit the little Catholic church that was in my hotel neighborhood. I hadn't seen it yet--frankly because it was up a bit of a steep hill and I hadn't talked myself into the "climb." Jeshua had visited and the priest who was there at the time seemed a little unfriendly, so there was evidence for the "don't bother" side of my inward debate. I was tired and probably needed to think about getting some dinner and what was one more church, anyway? I had been in quite a few and eventually they start running together in my memories. I didn't really need more data in that memory file, did I?

I had been walking the whole time I was in the debate and I was getting close to the corner of decision...and I mean the literal corner. If I turned to the right, I'd soon be back to my hotel...rats...that meant I had unwittingly passed the cafe with the really good pizza slices. I slowed my pace..thinking to stave off the decision. I would likely never be back in this spot. I looked at my watch: 5:10 p.m. A little earlier than I thought. Hmm...time enough to go, take a quick look and a picture or two to say I'd been there and then head out for some supper. 

Decision made, I walked straight through the corner and started up the hill. It was steep enough that they had taken out some of the marble in the middle of the street and put in concrete that had ridges...like corrugation...I'm assuming to give cars traction. But my cane and I made it to the top and could see the plain little church across the street and off to the left.

At the base of the gate was a landing with steps coming up from both directions...maybe eight or so--see the handrails. Very thankful for them.

 

 

Appreciated the English Translation of the sign.

For those of you reading this and not clear about what the "annunciation" is, think announcement. It is in specific reference to when the angel Gabriel was sent by God to Nazareth to let Mary know that she had been chosen to bear the Messiah. It's a great read..Luke Chapter 1...and Mary's response: 
 
^{Luke 1:38} Then Mary said, “Behold the maidservant of the Lord! Let it be to me according to your word.”

Whew, talk about having a good attitude and choosing to be obedient!! 

I stood in the street a few minutes, just thinking about that account...took a deep breath and started up the steps. The doors opened easily and I stepped into the vestibule. 

Often there is someone watching over the church. Sometimes a priest, but more often a women of the congregation. I can imagine the ladies' group had a sign up sheet and took turns hovering in the back and making sure that proper respect is shown by the visitors.

However, in this moment, no one was around. This was my first view.

The sanctuary felt refreshingly simple...and since my tradition is painfully simple, that is saying a lot! But remember I've been visiting Greek Orthodox churches full of icons and ornate decor. Please note: I am not making a judgement statement, but just an observation.

Know that there was no light from heaven or angelic presence, but I knew from the moment I stepped into the church, that the presence of God was there...maybe even waiting for me. I walked up to the third bench from the front and sat down. 

As in many churches in Europe, someone was buried in the isle. 

I took off my backpack, took a deep breath and looked around. Looking at the painting at the front and physically feeling (no, I can't explain it) God's presence.
No one else came in.
 

" Ecce Ancilla Domini" -- "Behold the Handmaiden of the Lord"

I started to softly sing what I call Mary's song...her response to Elizabeth as they talked about the two babies not yet born--John (the Baptist) and Jesus (the Messiah).  Still in Luke Chapter 1...
⁴⁶ And Mary said:
“My soul doth magnify the Lord,
⁴⁷ And my spirit has rejoiced in God my Savior.
⁴⁹ For He who is mighty has done great things for me,
And holy is His name."

I looked to the left and there was a beautiful painting of the baptism of Jesus...and I switched songs...

 "Let the Spirit descend on the wings of a dove...
As it did on Jesus that day.
He was baptized by John in the river called Jordan.
And a voice like thunder cried, "This is my Son!"
     "This is my Son, in whom I'm well pleased.
      This is my only Son!"
(you can read about it in Luke, Chapter 3.)

What a wonderful time of worship! And then the church bells rang! I looked at my watch...5:45 p.m. Just then a priest came into the sanctuary from a side door. He smiled at me, but went about opening the Bible on the pulpit, adjusting a microphone and doing what looked to me like the last minute chores of any pastor about ready to have a service. People started slowly arriving. 

I was thrilled to think that a service was starting! I had been in the "brick and mortar" of lots of churches, but here, in this moment, I was with THE CHURCH...the gathering of believers for worship!

Now you will note that I am NOT quibbling about modes of baptism or theological correctness (from whose viewpoint?) or the veneration of Mary (all you protestants need to know that veneration actually means: great respect!). I will not fall down the rabbit hole into those discussions just now. However, I admit that, not being Catholic, it all flew through my mind. But the Spirit of the Lord was so evident and present, I decided to stand as part of the "little c" catholic, meaning inclusive...and using as my text Paul's words to the church in Corinth
 

1 Corinthians 2:2For I determined not to know anything among you except Jesus Christ and Him crucified.

As more folks came in and greeted one another, I wisely decided I should not be in the third row in a service style that I was not very familiar with in English, much less Greek, so I gathered my backpack and cane and moved about halfway back. Over the next few minutes about 40 folks gathered including a row or two of some of the folks from the Louisiana choir. They filed into the first couple of rows all dressed in black, which surprised me at first until I realized they were dressed for the Opera Gala performance scheduled later that evening. 😄

The bells rang again and the service started--all in Greek. There were lay readers, even women(!) and song leaders from the congregation. I could recognize the cadence of the Lord's Prayer and I'm pretty sure I spotted the Apostle's Creed. I wish I could have understood the priest's homily because, he spoke so sincerely and the people around me seemed very focused on him. 

My mind wandered and I spent a little time dredging up my Latin to translate a little of the gravestone in the isle--someone who died in 1834.

"Blessed are those who die in the Lord" was pretty much all I could do other than a few words here and there.

During the greeting time, or Passing the Peace maybe it is called, several people made a point to come to greet me, most shaking hands and a couple kissing me cheek to cheek. With the three nuns in attendance, my head covering felt right at home!

Then it was time for communion, which I did not participate in, but the song that was sung as the folks went forward was to the tune of "Michael Row Your Boat Ashore" so I hum-harmonized along and joined in on the Alleluias at the end of each phrase. The little old man in front of me turned and smiled and touched my hand. 

At the back of the church I joined file with the Louisiana folks, who were surprised to see me there, I think. It made we wonder who I might be surprised to see in heaven? 😎 

At the door, as we went out, a woman was handing out individually wrapped cookies. Someone ahead of me mentioned euros, maybe wondering if they were for sale, and the enthusiastic, "No, no, please take," came as the reply. So I did! Kind of an apple filled sweet dough--made me think of the apple fried pies passed around in some Amish circles. Maybe we really are all more alike than we are different!

I asked the priest if he spoke English, and he smiled, but said, "No, sorry." I said, "I wish I could tell you how much it meant for me to be included in your service this evening." A lady to the side of me said, "I will tell him." And she did and he took my hand again and Blessed Me, I think. 

After a day by myself, I really appreciated being snuggled into the Louisiana group for the trip down all the steps and the steep hill. At the corner, they went straight on to the Concert Hall and I turned left to head back to my hotel.  I would hear the Opera Gala in Athens next week. I thought maybe once would be enough. 😉

I often say that, while some times I think, "oh, I think I'll stay home from church--I'm too tired" or "I think I might have a headache" or whatever other excuse I can find, I have found that I am never sorry to be there once I give in and go. I never go and then think to myself that I should have stayed home. I am so thankful for the nudge that kept me from turning down the home stretch, but moved me up the hill and into the presence of the Lord with His people. What a perfect way to end my time in Syros!

I stopped at the store for a couple of pieces of fruit...

...stopped at the little cafe across from the hotel for a gyro to go and watched the evening slip away from the balcony of our hotel room. 

Tomorrow we would be off on the ferry back to Athens. Adventures awaited. I was packed and ready to go!

The Last Day on the Island...

On Saturday, our last day on the island, the choirs had a free day up until the call time to be the chorus for the Opera Gala at the Apollo Theater. We all agreed that sleeping in was definitely called for and the fact that the breakfast buffet was open until 10:30 a.m. meant we didn't even have to miss breakfast! After the wonderful concert the night before and the yummy birthday dinner, it felt  luxurious to wake up and simply roll over and go back to sleep! When I opened the drapes, the Aegean Sea was still there!! So blessed!

Jeshua had organized a "field trip" for VOT that involved a lot of hill climbing so I elected to stay home from it. They were going to Ano Syros, a medieval Catholic settlement on a high hill above Hermopolis. The plan was to take a city bus up as high as they could, then hike/walk the rest of the way. It was a good plan. 😎 Somehow, they missed the bus, or it missed them, so they ended up hiking up the whole way. The last part up is not open to cars and Jeshua said they passed a donkey on their way down laden with cases of bottled water and other goods for the cafe at the top. It was a wonderful view, and they enjoyed lunch together. They also visited the Church of St. George--a Catholic church built in the 1200's and sang in it, of course.

Meanwhile I had the day to myself and had a list of last minute things I wanted to do. I set out walking along the harbor, making a point to take more careful notice as this would be my last time.

I had enjoyed this flower garden each time I passed by.

I had not really stopped to look at this statue on the harbor path...

...nor had I noticed that when you stood in front of it, it was at the base of the street that led from the harbor up to the main town square, Miaoulis Square, and the steps of the City Hall--which is the main administration building for all the Cyclades.

A very welcoming statue...and note the nice view of the Church of the Resurrection at the top of the hill.

I also took a picture of a very important business, and, as far as I know, the only one of its kind on the island--

...the Green Shirt--laundry services!

No laundromats here! But for 7euros/kilo (about $8.50), they would wash and dry your clothes for you. A one day service. Much pricier (and not nearly as nicely done, I might add) than the 40baht/kilo (about $1.20) in Thailand, but much cheaper than having it done at the hotel.

This is the view out from inside at the laundry counter. Wouldn't that make for a refreshing sight during the work day?

The main thing on my list was to visit the Church of the Assumption (Dormition) of the Virgin, a Greek Orthodox church that is home to an El Greco painting, Dormition of Virgin Mary, dated 1562. El Greco, meaning "the Greek, was a Greek man, Doménikos Theotokópoulos, who ended up living and painting in Spain during the Spanish Renaissance. The painting was probably brought to the island during the Greek War of Independence in the early 1800's. The painting was not publicly recognized and authenticated until 1983!! That was the year Jeshua was born! Good thing the "church ladies" hadn't thrown it out!

I really didn't want to go--it would be a long walk up and then down, but I will tell you, in case you don't experience it your own lives, that guilt is a great motivator! I knew if I told my fellow Grad TRAK! teachers that I had been in the town with one of the "masters" and I didn't make the effort, I would totally feel guilty!! And I could see if for free to boot! Ahh, the weight of guilt!

Jeshua had already been earlier in the week and encouraged me to go, also. But it was three blocks of steps up from the harbor walkway and sounded like way too much for me...with the coming down being much worse than the going up. However, as I explored the town during the week, I found that you could get to that area by following the street it was actually on beginning from the north end and go up the slopes of each block, thereby avoiding the steps of the direct route. So that was what I did.

At the corner before the church I stopped and took a picture looking up the hill...

...and down the hill toward the harbor.

The entrance to the church was this simple little gate. On a funny note, the next building which you see just a little to the left, is the island casino.

I appreciated the translation of the sign.

When I stood on the steps of the entrance and looked across the street, there was a sweet little garden...

...looking down on the harbor. I love how all the blue in this photo is water, not sky! It is still 2 blocks above the water.

A little further on the garden opened up and expanded.

When I went into the church gates, this is what I saw...

...the main doors to the right. The gates you see in the back went out to the next street above.

As I walked up the marble steps...two sets of them...I could feel the places where the steps were worn from the thousands upon thousands of folks who had climbed them before me. The church was built in 1828.

The view from the interior doors. I don't know the architectural terms, but the sanctuary has a large center and a wing on each side.

A close up of the always-present-front-and-center painting of the Last Supper. This one had smaller paintings of various scenes from the life of Christ to each side.

A much more ornate elevated lectern spot than I had seen elsewhere.

I had also not seen a sitting place that was so ornate either. Read that it was for visiting higher ups...bishops, etc. It was directly across from the elevated lectern.

This "hall" was down the far right hand side of the sanctuary. The painting at the top left was in memory of those who died in the failed Cyprus Revolt against British Rule in 1931.

The ceiling over the central section. One of the few churches that did not have a dome.

And, of course, the El Greko painting.

The Dormition of the Virgin...meaning the passing of Mary from this earthly life.

It is a small painting, only 18" X 24". This is the sign next to it and I thought it worth a picture for the information.

So I was at one end of the harbor and the next location on my agenda was at the other end, up the hill from our hotel. But I'm running out of time today, so that story must wait for the next blog installment. Stay tuned! It's a good one!

A Sunset Concert and My Birthday! Part 2

Each of the four choral groups had their own program. Somehow I missed taking a picture of the Presbyterian group from Indianapolis. They closed with a beautiful arrangement of When I Survey the Wondrous Cross.

The Arizona kids did a great job...again ending with Let There Be Peace on Earth. Very touching and much cheered by the audience.

 VOT was great! Such good acoustics!

Jeshua works and directs them, but when they perform, they do it without him. Makes them distinctive, I think.

They closed with (When the Storms of Life Are Raging) Stand By Me. I don't know if they had decided ahead of time or whether it was spontaneous, but they took hands as they started to sing that last song. Gave me chills!

The Louisiana and North Carolina combined group ended the evening with their crowd pleasing closer, On That Great Getting Up Morning, a wonderful spiritual!

While we were inside, darkness had descended and my close up of the Church of the Resurrection had a different color palette.

It had been my birthday all day 😍 and I had lots of birthday greetings as the word went though the larger choir group. Jeshua planned to take me out to dinner to the one actual Italian cafe in town...of course, it was at the far end of the harbor, so a good walk. The tables were full, but there was a spot for two down toward the end, so we gratefully sat down. 

A young man and his dad were sitting at the other end and they were talking in Greek to the server. Once the server was gone they reverted to English. We kind of minded our own end of the table, but I wondered where they were from. 

Our server came and brought us water and bread along with a good herb seasoned butter.

 We had some yummy little bruschetta along with some "grilled" cheese. I ordered a pesto/garlic/pine nut with penne pasta...which turned out to be beyond yummy! I could only eat half, so I took it back to the hotel, put it in our little room fridge and had the rest for lunch the next day!

Happy 65th Birthday to Me!!

Who would have ever predicted that I would be spending my 65th birthday with my youngest son in GREECE!! Oh my!! The Lord's blessings are amazing!!

So we are sitting there and I see a little commotion out of the corner of my eye. I look up...and there is VOT on the sidewalk before our table! They sang Happy Birthday to me in all their harmonious glory!! What fun!!

That got the dad and son talking to us...they are from West Palm Beach, Florida and spend part of every summer in Greece. They were quite impressed with VOT--of course!--and were interested in why we were there. Fun to visit with them a little.

The servers were very slow to get our bill to us due to a problem with either their hardware or the program that prints them. So they brought us dessert on the house! Quite yummy. By the time we left, we were too full for gelato! Imagine that!

And for my final birthday delight, we took a cab home! No harbor walk for me that night! I'm sure if Ecclesiastes were being written today, it would also say "a time to walk, and a time to ride!"

A Sunset Concert and My Birthday!! Part 1

Each of the choirs that came had the opportunity to perform their own program in a combined performance at St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church on Friday evening...the 12th Annual Sunset Concert at 7:30 p.m.


I walked to the town square, by the library...

The library is this building at the far right of the whole block long set of buildings that line one side of the town square. The rehearsal hall is 3 floors up in the next building over.

...around the corner and up to the rehearsal hall and up another block to the Apollo Theater...

 around to the right and up yet two more blocks...

At least this block had a sidewalk even though it was still the slick marble.

This block had more like a wide curb!

...and around the bend to St. Nicholas, with a little park in front of it.

Once I walked beyond the park, I still had the church steps to ascend!

St. Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors. Every port city has one high up on a hill. The view from the porch was quite nice!

Looking out over the rooftops...

With a zoom lens, I got a good view of this church...Anastasis, or Church of the Resurrection. It was quite a hike up to it, but a couple of the VOT folks went and raved about it. I didn't go up. It was a case of the ABC syndrome kicking in (Another Beautiful Cathedral/Church/Castle).😔

The view straight down the steps to the park below with a bevy of Greek flags surrounding the statue.

Which leads me to an interesting observation. In addition to the paintings of the Last Supper in the front of all the Orthodox churches, each one we saw flew the flag shown below. My photos didn't show it very well, so I am using this one from wikimedia to show you. It piqued my interest so I did a little research on it. It is a yellow flag with a black double-headed eagle clutching a scepter in one claw and an orb in the other, with a crown above and between the two heads. (Some versions have a cross instead of a scepter). This flag doesn't have official status as the flag of the Orthodox Church of Greece, however seems to be flown at all the orthodox churches we saw--and has some historical relationship to the Byzantine Empire. The double headed eagle stands for one of two possibilities: 1) the two sides, yet single body of the church and the state in ruling the people or 2) the unification of the East (Rome) with the West (Constantinople). Whatever the symbolism, I found it to be a bit threatening and didn't care for it very much. I find the dove to be a much better symbol!

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Greek_Orthodox_flag.jpg

Then I went inside!

The bottom rim of the dome.

A view from the back, taken with the camera held above the seats.

A close up of the Last Supper painting at the front and center.

This must have a name, but it is where the priest could climb up to stand in to give his homily. My understanding is that they are mostly just used on special occasions now.

Turning to the left side. The inside is a riot of color and arches and lines. While it is not my "style" for church, it is amazingly creative and must be very satisfying for those who are familiar with every nook and cranny.